Four Nights in Singapore
Singapore’s Flyer as seen from Marina Bay Park
Wonderful Changi Airport: here I am again!
Like many travellers wanting extended time in a foreign country, I needed to do a visa run so booked a return ticket, Chiang Mai-Singapore, and thought I’d stay few days and explore the city. Singapore’s cleanliness, efficiency and logical layout is already obvious at the airport. As a hub for international travel, few airports surpass Changi for the thought put into how passengers are entertained and made comfortable while awaiting flights. In recent years I’ve needed to break my journeys between Australia and Europe, so I’ve stayed at Changi’s transit hotel several times, where you can have a swim, restful sleep, and if time allows, a two-hour morning (or afternoon) tour of the downtown area. However, on this trip, I stayed at a fraction of the cost at a capsule style backpacker right in the heart of town. At Circular House, I tried both a double-bed capsule in a shared dorm, and a private single room.
The transit system in Singapore (buses and MRT) is great. No need for expensive taxis.
From Changi, take the train from Terminal 3 after clearing customs. An efficient shuttle train connects all terminals. Most connections using the East-West or the Downtown lines are then made at Tanah Merah MRT – two stops from the airport. I needed the Raffles subway stop on the East-West MRT line some ten stops on, so bought a transit card and topped it up with ten dollars – enough for four days. (Leave an hour to and from Chiangi.)
Impression of Singaporeans on arrival: polite, friendly, helpful and rule observant
When commuting in this city, the first thing you notice is how engaging people are. I’d only been there a half hour and in that time four people had gone out of their way to offer explanations and directions. There are signs on trains and around the station to remind folk to be considerate of others, constant announcements over the intercom to report any suspicious looking person, and lines painted on platforms, that everyone obeys, showing where to stand for boarding and alighting. There had been a recent rise in Covid cases so all but one person in my carriage were wearing their mask. Just as the train was about to depart, the platform attendant leapt into the carriage and demanded he put on his mask. It was not her bark that made him tremble but the evil-eye stare that accompanied it. The same woman had been delightful when I’d asked her for directions earlier and, unbidden, had explained Singapore’s transit system. However, breaking rules here elicits swift reprimands and fines or jail sentences for more serious transgressions such as organising protests in favour of free speech and democracy – both recently punished.
A little history
Modern Singapore was founded in 1819 by Sir Stamford Raffles of the British East India Company. To summarise, it remained under British rule (for defense and foreign policy) until 1963 – and was for many years part of the Straits Settlements that included Penang and Malacca/Melaka, except between the 1942 – 1945 war years when it was held by Japanese forces. Between 1963 until 1965 it was an autonomous state within the Malaysian Federation continuing its internal self-governance that began in 1959 when the People’s Action Party (PAP) under Lee Kuan Yew swept into power. Full independence as the Republic of Singapore then came in 1965 with Lee Kuan Yew as the nation’s first prime minister, a position he held for some thirty-one years. Under his rule, the nation modernised and became a founding member of ASEAN and an influential international player. Lee Kuan Yew oversaw the rapid growth of the nation’s economy that led to a dramatic increase in people’s standard of living. His son, Lee Hsien Loong, (also of the PAP) has held that position and maintained his father’s legacy since 2004.
Below: aspects of colonial history and Chinese heritage
Accommodation: budget-style as usual for me because this city can be very expensive. Below: my pod and lovely neighborhood that includes back lanes – home to a thousand-and-one air-conditioner motors. Singapore has two seasons they say: hot and hotter!
It was easy to find Circular House on Circular Road. It’s near the river in a popular restaurant and bar precinct, and is within walking distance of Marina Sands, the museums, the business centre, China Town, parks, shopping malls, theatres and art galleries. I’d slept well in my ‘pod’ (at AU$50 then but now $61-$78, p/n) behind a small door in a room with a dozen other pods – (top and bottom, some single, others double as these are mixed dorms. The single private room at the time was A$110. As a comparison, a room at the nearby Fullerton Hotel can make a A$900 dent in your wallet - yes, Singapore can be expensive, and that’s why I was so happy that at the hostel there are clean shared bathrooms, washing machines, a lounge upstairs where coffee is provided around the clock, and toast with marmalade for breakfast. Beside the door to a balcony for smokers, is a sign that reads ‘Alcohol is forbidden on the premises’. The door to the street is code-locked, as are the large lockers provided for guests.
Clark Quay MRT station is only a five-minute walk as are the river cruises, and the street nearby is serviced by buses on various routes. It’s a fabulous location, and most importantly, the staff are welcoming, friendly and helpful around the clock. I’d mislaid my earrings in the locker room on day two of my stay. I’d suggested at reception that ‘Perhaps someone had picked them up by mistake.’ This resulted in a call to the police. Gobsmacked by what I thought was an excessive response, I was informed that ‘citizens were obliged to report any suspected crime immediately’ and as no one had handed the earrings in at reception, a theft may have occurred, which, by law, needed to be reported. It was her duty, the receptionist explained.
The stunning architecture of downtown Singapore. Below: the foyer of the Marina Bay Sands Hotel
The buildings flanking the river behind the hostel that house bars and restaurants are from a bygone era – Singapore as it used to be – prettily painted, many with colonial-plantation shutters. Across the river, you see Neoclassical architecture, and in the distance, the spectacular Marina Bay Sands Hotel towers over the horizon. Inclement weather makes it appear to be sailing on low heavy clouds. Away from the river, rising high above the shuttered colonials, is the ultra-modern business district showcasing the design skills of Singaporean architects – so impressive that it draws my mind back to my first bus tour of Singapore as a child over half a century ago when the island had not yet shaken off British colonial rule. That was the first time in my life that I saw slums, so to say the place has changed since then would be the biggest understatement of all time. For its spectacular development, Singaporeans thank their visionary former Prime Minister, Lee Kuan Yew.
Below: the innovative curves of Singapore’s glass and steel masterpieces in design, and a game of cricket in the rain.
The small nation offers many attractions and lists of the top 10 or 20 are easily found online. My short stay’s itinerary would be limited to: a shopping and dining visit to Little India’s Tekka Centre, the lantern festival in China Town, a Hop-on, Hop-off bus tour of the downtown area with historical commentary, the National Gallery, a guided tour of the Museum of Asian Civilisation, a river walk and performance of ethnic music and dance, an international show at the Esplanade Theatre, a visit to the Marina Bay area at daytime to enjoy the greenery, and for the light show at night, a day trip to Sentosa‘s beach with a look at that area’s Universal Studios, Sky Dive and Aquarium, a self-guided architectural photography excursion, exploring the city’s statues, sampling Singapore’s cuisine and visiting the famous (1887) Raffles Hotel.
Choosing where to eat is often an economic decision
It was 8.30 pm by the time I’d unpacked and hunger soon had me sitting by the river at an Indian restaurant with a wonderful view across the river whose rippling waters reflected city lights. The korma curry and garlic naan were delicious with a first-class price of A$40.00. To compare quality and price, I ordered the same meal, equally delicious in Little India at A$12.00 two days later. They’d argue that one pays for the river view, but in Little India, you should have seen the women and the variety of their saris as they walked by – also a captivating view. The next day, two coffees and slice of chocolate cake on the waterfront ($27.00) would compare with the same the day after ($14.00) away from the tourist and business precinct. Lunch (Char Koay Teow, an iconic local dish) at the Hawkers’ Centre that comprises two entire floors inside a modern commercial building in the business district came to only $4.00. Small wonder the lunchtime queue of young office workers is so long. Dishes in China Town are similarly priced. In short, Singapore cuisine suits every wallet. To walk off dinner, a stroll along either side of the river rewards with illuminated architecture and bridges in intense fluorescent apple green. It’s peaceful to watch the small boats meandering down the river carrying sightseers to the spectacular light show near the Marina Sands area.
Art at the National Gallery
Deciding against the hostel’s free toast and jam, I had a tasty breakfast at Starbucks: a scrambled egg, ham and tomato wrap, almond croissant and an oat milk cappuccino which required a third shot to resemble the strong coffee I prefer. The walk to the National Gallery then took me past the large Padang sporting ground, where two cricket teams were doing battle (while standing still – as seems customary in this game: no – not a cricket fan) in front of Singapore’s Cricket Club, the nation’s second oldest sporting club.
The Neoclassical gallery has several ticketed exhibitions and ones that are free. I limited myself to the sculpture section which had some stunning modern creations as well as beautiful religious sculptures (mainly Buddhist and Hindu) and two sections dedicated to children’s activities that were full of kids and their parents having fun building cardboard creations for which there were a hundred models on display.
Below: glimpses into the National Gallery
Off to Raffles
A visitor ought to ‘at least’ wander around the iconic Raffles Hotel. I’d come twice before but it was closed for renovations. Back then, I was desperate to try a Singapore Sling, but that desire plummeted when I tried one – how disappointing that pink ‘lolly-water’ was! (Perhaps dry martini drinkers like me are simply not cut out for sophisticated sweet Slings.) I toured the premises – white walls set off against dark wooden shutters – a distinctly colonial ambience completed by a grand sky-blue fountain and garden with tropical plants, large terracotta pots and Chinese urns in blue on white. There are several up-scale restaurants, and a double room is AU$1,760 per night (the equivalent of a 6-month studio rental in Thailand – just to put things into perspective). At what was once the most elegant entrance in Singapore, a Sikh Indian attendant is employed to welcome and farewell guests – his white turban matching his white nineteenth-century livery that’s reminiscent of the British East India era. Nearby is a delightful street called Purvis lined with iconic Singaporean shopfront houses calling out to be photographed. I obliged, and then entered one that’s a charming restaurant and ordered a grilled salmon lunch. It, and the building next door also function as boutique relatively inexpensive hotels. I decided I stay there, at D’Nova Hotel@Bugis, on my next visit a few months ago. They have various room configurations. Rooms tend to range from A$150 to $220 p/n. Mine was small, sparkling clean, intelligently appointed, quiet and cosy: very pleasant. I was very happy the 5 days I stayed there.
Below: The entrance and a Sikh concierge welcoming guests, the Blue Fountain and images of colonial architectural elegance.
An evening sight-seeing bus tour that ends with a spectacular light and sound display
At a nearby shopping mall, I noticed how formal the fashion is here – compared with Chiang Mai where I often stay for lengthy periods. It’s subdued in both colour and design. I arrived just in time for evening tour on the Hop-on, Hop-off bus. The upper level of the double-decker was filled with an international crowd attentively listening to our guide – an older Indian gentleman with a great sense of humour and a wealth of local knowledge who delivered his narrative through a microphone. The highlights of the tour were the favourite park of Singaporeans for flying kites on weekends that’s next to the well-engineered dike that prevents the ocean from flooding the city. Next, was a drive through China Town, lit up with hundreds of lanterns for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival which features lanterns and mooncakes. We then stopped at a well-known undercover hawker centre called Lau Pa Festival Pavilion that’s busy to bursting point every day in both its indoor and outdoor seating areas. We indulged in satay Singaporean-style, enjoyed a beer or coke, hunted around for a hawker with a short queue that sold sweets, and then boarded the bus again for the grand finale, a spectacular light and musical display at the Marina Bay Sands park. The giant tree-like structures (Supertree Grove) were lit up so that ever-changing colours played around and above them like fireworks while first-class speakers filled the balmy evening air with well-known classics and jazz.
Below: On the bus: winning lanterns of a children’s painting competition; dining at Lau Pa Festival Pavilion; lanterns in China Town; the amazing light an musical performance at Marina Bay, and the dam that keeps Singapore safe – with kites aloft among the clouds and cargo freighters in the background waiting to enter the world’s busiest port.
Some interesting facts and figures from our bus tour guide
Our guide’s narration covered Singapore’s history in terms of gaining independence in 1965 and moving on to detail how much of the nation’s area (almost one quarter) is comprised of land reclaimed from the sea. He told us about the various ethnicities here, the eighteen different religions or belief groups of which the main ones (in order of percentage/population) are Buddhist, Christian, Agnostic/Atheist, Muslim, Taoist and Hindu. A surprising 40% of Singaporean residents are expats. Most Singaporean-born residents speak at least two languages. School tuition is in English. He told us the price of real estate but there were too many zeros for me to remember, and he asked whether we’d noticed how light the traffic was in town. He was eager to explain that Singaporeans pay up to $100,000 for a Certificate of Entitlement for the ‘right’ to buy and register a vehicle for ten years (that’s before they buy the car). There are other charges purposefully kept high like the permits to drive the car into the downtown area, so a car with a market value of $15,500 will cost well over $100,000 to own. Consequently, most people use the well-maintained, reliable public transit service which is more efficient, demands no parking real estate, and is better for the environment.
The Asian Civilisation Museum
In the morning sunshine, I revisited the Marina Bay area to take some better better-lit photographs and then headed over to the Asian Civilization Museum that has some very intriguing collections and one hall dedicated to a shipwreck whose salvaged items were like a puzzle that helped historians piece together some missing aspects in Asian history: the nationality of sailors, how they entertained themselves onboard, the cargo that was shipped, how it was packed, the coin and gold used for trading and the list goes on. There was also a special exhibition of batik fabric with a huge variety of patterns on display.
What I liked most about this museum is the care taken in the explanation of each item on display. A silver bowl is not, as is the case in many museums, described as a silver bowl. For most items here, one learns of their origin, history, use, and construction, often with the name of the artisan or workshop, and date of creation, and sometimes about how it relates to other objects on display or to some historical event. Many of the texts displayed on walls highlight the historical connections between Asian nations, their products and their relationship with colonial powers.
As there’s always something on offer in Singapore, I spent the afternoon enjoying traditional music and dance performed in a marquee erected in a nearby park.
Below: larger than life ancient statues, a gold-leaf embossed hand-written text, examples of batik from different Asian nations and modern applications; intriguing items challenging thoughts on their function; enamel ware; a multinational ensemble functioning as in incense burner and one of three mirrored balls on the museum’s front lawn.
The evening subway had me in Little India ready for some serious shopping at the Tekka Centre. I prefer cotton tops with interesting trim and comfortable rayon slacks. The Indian precinct in Singapore, like that in Penang, offers an enormous choice including casual wear and gorgeous, traditional saris and wedding outfits for men and women. Every time I shop in these places, I wish I had the genetic heritage ‘not’ to feel so foreign in a sari. After my $50 shopping spree got me three pairs of stylish long pants and two long embroidered tops, I found a restaurant with outdoor seating. While enjoying butter chicken and naan, I watched the world go by – like a fashion parade – almost swooning over the lovely saris and kurtas worn by Indian shoppers.
I took the metro to Sentosa the next day and changed to a small free shuttle train to the beach (where it was a little disappointing to see so much plastic garbage floating in the water). An alternative to the shuttle train is the cable car ride whose gondolas provide an excellent view of the surrounding landscape. Sentosa, on the southern coast, is where many Singaporeans go for beach access, hiking and bike trails, and to entertain themselves and their children. There are challenging shapes in the water for kids to climb over – with dozens of container ships in the far distance presumably awaiting access to Singapore’s port. There’s an abundance of treed garden space for picnics and a large centre called Palwan Kidz City to keep youngsters entertained as well as a simulated sky-dive attraction for older ‘kids,’ and a huge entertainment complex called Resorts World that includes Universal Studios, an Aquarium, a casino, a convention centre, a theatre, a Lego store with the latest designs, a waterpark, several restaurants, and shops offering all the candy and ice cream anyone would ever want to eat. I stopped there mainly to report whether Singapore had enough to offer for families to consider it for either short get-aways or stop-overs on the long flights between Australia and ‘the rest of the world.’ The verdict: yes.
Below: Sentosa beach, its layout and attraction at Resort World.
Walking through the late afternoon drizzle, I was intrigued by hundreds of young people, mostly women, grouped under trees in the Esplanade Park, each huddled under their umbrella and sharing their picnics. Their blankets were spread on plastic sheets – the weather hadn’t deterred them. A few hundred others had found shelter for their picnics in the cavernous underpass leading to the Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay. As I turned the corner into a narrower, empty passageway, I passed a young Muslim woman spreading out her prayer rug – it was that time of day. Later, I discovered that they’re part of the young expat population employed mainly as maids and waitresses. These are the only places where they can gather to enjoy their commonality in large groups. They do so on their only day off, each Sunday, come rain or shine.
The Esplanade: Theatres on the Bay are an inspired melange of steel, wood and glass within two giant, spiky convex golden shells. At the box office, I manage to get tickets to that evening’s performance of Stomp – an award-winning British show whose focus is complex, energetic percussion sound created using a variety of unexpected ‘instruments’ such as brooms, buckets, tubes, wooden poles and feet tap-dancing on sand. There are eight performers – two are female and one man is assigned the role of comic relief eliciting much laughter from the audience that’s periodically encouraged to participate by echoing an increasingly complicated sound pattern by clapping. It’s a very interactive and enjoyable show. Afterwards, I enjoy watching how the Marina Bay area is lit up with ever-changing coloured lights. There’s movement on the river too as the illuminated boat cruises are still operating late into the night and the bridge is full of people out for an evening walk now that the rain has stopped.
Singapore at night: stunning, awesome, fabulous!
Below: The interior and pineapple-like exterior of the Esplanade Theatre; view across the river to the museum and business CBD on the right with Marina Bay Sands Hotel, centre. Left, fabulous architecture on every corner.
I checked out and headed through the city to the airport (takes an hour) during the insanely busy Monday morning’s rush hour. I arrived three hours before my flight to allow for breakfast at the airport. Mid-afternoon, I had my passport stamped with a thirty-day ‘visa-on-arrival’ at Chiang Mai International Airport and a Grab cab had me home within fifteen minutes. The following week, the Visa Assist Office would extend my Thai visa for another month. Mission accomplished!
