Most visitors use Málaga on Spain’s southern coast for arrivals and departures, but if you had a day or two, your day’s itinerary might start with a visit to the Museo Picasso (he was born in Málaga), followed by an exploration of the Museo Unicaja de Artes y Costumbres Populares. It’s said to give the best insight into the heart of Spain throughout its history – arts and crafts, lifestyle, and clothing. You could then grab some prawns for lunch from one of the dozens of seafood restaurants and afterwards climb Castillo de Gibralfaro, a Moorish castle, and visit its museum. Mid-afternoon, you might make your way to the beach nearest the town centre, the Playa de la Málagueta, and have a swim and a little siesta. In the evening, there are many bars to explore, several with live music. You might drop in for a beer at the ZZ Pub or gravitate to the Premier Room with its funky ambience and vibe. It pays to make a plan because there are a hundred ways to entertain oneself in Málaga, including reading up the Spanish history that played out here.
More than other Spanish cities, Málaga witnessed much of nation’s turbulence. ‘The Industrial Revolution brought rapid progress to Málaga, turning it into Spain’s first affluent industrialised city. However, because this wealth was not equitably shared, social unrest among exploited workers grew, and they began to react. When the city turned to communism, it became known as Red Málaga, the centre of anti-church and anti-bourgeois factions. Much of the religious architecture in Málaga was destroyed between then and well into the early twentieth century.’
‘Not all of Spain, however, leant so heavily to the left of politics and the right-wing, pro-church party won the 1933 election, but opposition to this victory came from all sides: the anarchists, the fascists, and the reactionaries. They combined and called themselves the Popular Front, won the 1936 election, and further challenged the Catholic church. Although this ‘Revolution’ of 1936 lasted only ten months, enormous social changes in Libertarian Communism were set in motion in both industry and agriculture. Workers rose in defense of equity and tried to create an environment opposite of capitalism – without landlords, high-earning managers, or state authority. The workers had found their voice, particularly in Catalonia and the Valencia region, where agricultural communes and industrial collectives were established.’ Much religious architecture was destroyed during this time.
Meanwhile, General Franco stationed in Morocco with his army liked none of this, so rounded up his men and invaded Spain. It’s estimated that up to one million people lost their lives in the Spanish Civil War that followed during which Franco took power, outlawed all but his own ruling Falange party, made Catholicism mandatory and banned the Catalonian and Basque languages. While the monarchy tenuously clung on in the background keeping their heads low, Franco executed around 151,000 citizens who opposed him. He ruled with an iron fist for thirty-six terrifying years until his death in 1975.
‘As I pass Málaga’s stunning cathedral on my way to the harbour, I can’t help but marvel at how lucky it was to have survived those days. On this balmy evening, although the sun has almost set, it’s still quite light. I find another bench and sit for a while among the seagulls and the many couples taking an evening stroll to continue my reading on Spanish history and its current, admirable king, whose father, Carlos, succeeded Franco. In 2014, after a financial scandal, King Carlos passed the crown to his son, Filipe who rules a much calmer, democratic nation.
