Rural UK

The UK: Rural Braunston and canal boating

My apologies for the delay in July’s newsletter. I’ve been racing around from pillar to post catching up with friends and family in Germany and England.

Having been to London a number of times, I thought I’d start my UK report by comparing a rural town with busy urban London, but not just ‘any’ town. The village of Braunston is the centre for canal boating; an industry and leisure activity made possible by a number of long-boat hire companies. The canal near my friend’s home in Braunston connects London to Birmingham crossing another canal that leads to Oxford. Some folk live on these boats and so it’s not unusual to see their decks and roofs covered with vegetable and flower pots wedged between their solar panels. They’re coloufully painted and are quite a sight as they pass each other on the narrow canals or tie up for a night or two at a village along their route.

The Braunston canal boating experience now sits high on my bucket list!! And if you’re interested, for comprehensive information, see www.unioncanalcarriers.co.uk

Meantime, here’s a little summary. Even with zero experience, you’ll soon gain confidence as the staff teaches you how to handle ‘your’ boat before you set out on one of 10 routes of different lengths and a varying number of locks to negotiate. For example: Fenny Compton & return takes about 16 hours with 8 locks. Stratford on Avon & return takes around 56 hours with 164 locks to negotiate. I hear someone asking, ‘What’s a lock?’ Well, they allow boats to travel across waterways that are at different heights in relation to sea level by raising or lowering the boat like an elevator while it's locked in a section between two waterways or canal sections that are at different heights. The boat enters the lock at one level. Water is allowed to flow into the lock raising (or lowering) the boat which is then released when the level in the lock matches the water level in the direction the boat is travelling. It only takes about 15 minutes for a lock to fill and raise long boats to the water level of the next section of the canal and it’s quite mesmerising to watch. One ‘lock master’ proudly told me, “Most of what you see here is still the original, sturdy Victorian engineering!’

Historically, transport on the canals fuelled the Industrial Revolution and the Napoleonic War efforts by allowing easy freight transport. Towns, like Braunston, along the canal routes flourished for 60 years until the railways (and later trucks) took over. In its heyday, tiny Braunston boasted 18 pubs! Now, these picturesque waterways are primarily used for recreation, and of course, for permanent and seasonal living. Those housing permanent residents are easily identifiable, especially in warmer seasons, by the lovely floral and vegetable displays on their roofs and decks.

The boats come in a variety of sizes categorised by the number of berths: singles with a double or twin (are usually 46-47ft in length); 2 to 4 berth (58ft); 4 to 6 (65ft) and 6 to 8 berths (69ft). They’re fitted out with beds and bedding, kitchen with cook top & oven, sink, fridge & tables, 1 or 2 WCs and a shower with continual access to hot water. They come with a flatscreen TV and DVD, and Bluetooth radio players plus USB sockets. Mobile Wifi is also available. There’s a deck both front and rear allowing canal boat trips to offer you a relaxing time out whether a wonderful romantic getaway or a lovely family-bonding holiday. Well-behaved pets are also welcome. There are plenty of stores for grocery shopping along the canals as well as places to tie up for the night.

The spire of Braunston’s All Saints church (1849) can be seen for miles and it prides itself on offering Sunday services to passing canal folk. Typical of many towns along the canals, Braunston boasts lovely historic buildings and welcoming townsfolk. The deli-butcher is stocked with local produce: cured meats, preserves, sauces, pastries, bread and all manner of goods to whet your appetite. A lovely group of volunteers runs the town’s popular Village Café, and some of the information I’m sharing is from a leaflet detailing Braunston’s historic self-guided walks prepared by one of its members, who, incidentally lived the ‘canal life’ for years. Thank you, Trines (2022).

Below: Although there are various hire companies, the one at Braunston was one very willing to be of service and supply well-maintained boats and information on boating ‘lifestyle’. Here is a floor plan of some boats, various canal routes, boats resting for the night, either in the harbour or tied to the bank.

Below: Braunston was, and still is, an agricultural village. It’s been here hundreds of years and many of the stone houses are over 400 years old.

Below: Among the cattle and sheep, and more people walking their dog than I’ve ever seen anywhere in the world, the floral displays in summer attract pretty butterflies and bumble bees while the canal is alive with ducks and a few pairs of graceful, but sometimes cranky white swans.