Granada, Alhambra, Generalife and Flamenco
Come take peek at this gorgeous city with its stunning architecture – easy to imagine it as the nation’s capital of a bygone era. After Seville, where my lack of Spanish caused a few problems, I was relieved that I could get by using English so easily here. The hostel receptionist explained this with, ‘Since UNESCO listed the Alhambra as a heritage site, everyone’s made a great effort to improve their English. The city’s become very dependent on tourism.’ The Arabic influence is strong here where narrow lanes are lined with those typical dwellings whose focus is a courtyard filled with greenery. A fountain often takes centre stage, but right in the heart of town, at street level, many homes have been converted into stores, mostly selling colourful arrays of tourist souvenirs, clothes and jewellery. Amongst these are restaurants whose irresistible Arabic and Turkish aromas escape from pretty, inviting entrances. The city square also boasts a host of eateries with outdoor seating under broad white market umbrellas.
No visit to Granada is complete without an exploration of Alhambra. Linger for a moment at this ancient fortress, and then be amazed by the etherial carving and calligraphy at Generalife, the Moorish Sultan’s summer palace – designed to reflect the spiritual peace of heaven as depicted in the Quran. Amid its lush gardens hides the main water source for the entire Alhambra area – further testimony to the Moor’s advanced engineering skills.
Afterwards, invite yourself to an authentic Roma-inspired flamenco dance performance in a traditional cave setting on Sacromonte (Sacred Hill), home of the Roma community. Originally from India, their arrival in Spain dates back to the 1400s. Back then, people thought they were Egyptian and so called them Gypsies, a term they themselves reject. Their road to absolute harmony within European societies that are not naturally nomadic is still a little rocky, but in the 1970s, the Spanish government finally granted the almost 800,000 of them citizenship. They remain protective of their cultural identity, traditions and language. Here, as well as Spanish, they speak Cale (Caló) or Romani.
This style of flamenco was traditionally reserved for Roma weddings – notice how the floor is worn from decades of rhythmic pounding of dancers’ feet. ‘What are the lyrics about?’ I asked the guide. ‘The human condition, mostly its trials and tribulations,’ he replied.
