Nepal: Kathmandu
What to see and do in under a week
The flight from Malaysia landed at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, a chaotic place I’d visit several times as it had an often hard-to-find reliable ATM – necessary because cash is preferred at most places throughout this small, mountainous nation.
I’d soon discover that the busy capital is not at all reflective of Nepal. The nation abounds with stunning landscapes and beautiful vistas everywhere you trek. Both Kathmandu and Nepal’s second largest city, Pokhara, are hubs for trekkers either heading out or returning from their mountain explorations. Two such treks are the Everest Base Camp excursion and the Hundred Mile Manaslu (mountain) Circuit. Many breathtaking valleys, waterfalls, monasteries and small villages are best reached on foot. You can, for example, take trekking tours from 3 to 21 days or tailor your own depending on your fitness level, and dare I say, your age. Just remember that hiring a guide is mandatory in mountainous regions.
Below: These images give some idea of the enormous difference between what trekkers and explorers get to experience and what city-huggers see. They show everyday street scenes, a view over Kathmandu’s residential suburbs, an electrician’s nightmare, people in traditional dress walking to the airport and a sunrise over the city. In sharp contrast are the stunning open spaces of Nepal.
Deciding to leave trekking for another time, I spent several days exploring Kathmandu before travelling to magical Pokhara. Although damage from the horrific 2015 earthquake was still visible years later, the Nepalese heritage architecture of buildings such as the UNESCO protected structures below including those around Durbar Square is captivating because of its uniqueness. The distinguishing features are their ornate window frames and door architraves intricately carved from dark brown wood offset against red brick. Durbar is one of the most sacred places in the capital while also home to its busiest market square. Many Nepalese, especially older folk, wear traditional clothing here adding colour and an aspect of their culture to the visual experience of passers-by.
On the city’s outskirts there are many intriguing temples and shrines to explore, most with their resident monkeys either busy scaling the buildings, stealing food or dozing in the shade. At Swayambhunath temple that overlooks the city from on high, they’re especially active – small wonder its nickname is ‘Monkey Temple’. It dates to the 5th century and is known for its stupa with painted omnipresent eyes that watch over the world. It’s peaceful to spend time in the proximity of people lighting incense and quietly praying, and fun to watch the monkeys.
I visited two art schools, one in town and one near the Monkey Temple, where master painters – sometimes they’re monks – teach Tantric scroll painting. Captivated by the demonstration, I imagined myself enrolling for a course were I to stay longer. The paintings one sees displayed in Kathmandu are exceptionally beautiful. Throughout the city you’ll find many stores, almost like museums, to explore. They sell paintings, spiritual literature, music, all sorts of Buddhist and Hindu artifacts, CDs with meditation chants, books on self-development and healing, as well as works on most of the world’s religions – all nestled among statuettes and Tantric scrolls. I bought such a scroll for my son, and for myself a CD recording of a nun singing Buddhist mantras, and a well-researched book by Holger Kersten titled Jesus Lived in India: His unknown life before and after the crucifixion.
There are also upmarket stores with designer hemp and cashmere clothing as well as inviting internet cafés for digital nomads. Souvenir stores are literally everywhere, as are places where you can get a good massage or join a yoga class, and then eat your fill at delightful little restaurants offering delicious, fragrant and spicy Nepalese cuisine. At night, there are plenty of bars and places where food and drink are served to the accompaniment of a small band or guitarist.
To explore farther afield, I braved the bedlam at Kathmandu airport to book a flight with Buddha Air to take me as close to Mt Everest as such ‘joy rides’ are safely allowed fly. At 8,848 metres, it’s the world’s highest peak. The view from the plane’s window was spectacular, but in hindsight, those who intend to fly to Pokhara could save their money as the views from that flight, although not as expansive, are similar enough to tick the box. All three of my domestic flights had female pilots which I hoped was a sign of Nepalese gender equality in the workplace.
Below: The flight that took us past Mt Everest, the nearby temple with its many monkeys and the family who asked me to join them for the cremation of their relative. In the middle of the last image is the smoke from the funeral ceremony as seen from my hotel window.
On my last day, while having fun watching the monkeys running wild at Pashupatinath (a sacred reserve with a series of ancient temples, stupas and shrines), I was taken aback when a family of strangers invited me to attend the open-air cremation of their relative. Unnerved by the prospect of watching a human body go up in flames, I made an excuse and quickly returned to my lodgings across the Ring Road that leads to the airport. I simply wasn’t brave enough. From my window at the Amadablam Hotel, I could see the smoke from the funeral pyre rise into the late afternoon sky – the transition from mortal body to another manifestation or dimension – depending on the family’s beliefs.
